Stove pipe crimp tool

Slide the crimper over the pipe wall with the two-bladed jaw sitting inside the pipe and the three-bladed jaw sitting outside the pipe. Hold the crimper at a degree angle to the pipe opening. Apply forward pressure on the crimper as you squeeze its handles together. The amount of pressure you apply to the handles will determine the depth of the crimp. For most occasions, you will need a heavy crimp to ensure the crimped end of the pipe slides effortlessly into the non-crimped end of another pipe.

Release the crimper. You will notice two crimps on the end of the pipe. Align one off the outer crimper blades with the low ridge of the last crimp. There must be an attic insulation shield to keep that insulation 2" away from the chimney pipe. It needs that clearance right up through the roof. Be careful. It would be good to know how old that insulation is. It looks like vermiculite which is ok if done in the last 20 yrs then it's likely safe.

If done in the early 90s or before then it may contain asbestos. Reactions: clancey , MR. GLO and wjohn. The pipe in the attic is a Class A insulated pipe. Outside dia is 7'' which still retains the 6'' pipe in its interior. Reactions: clancey and all night moe. Thanks for taking that picture. It indicates you have some bigger problems.

That silver pipe should be a class A insulated chimney pipe and must be 2" away from any combustibles. It looks like it is touching wood. How is your landlord? This is something they should fix for you. The danger is that they might fix the problem by pulling the stove from the house. But, don't burn with how the chimney is set up now. That is a fire waiting to happen. Reactions: clancey. Then what do I do with this piece. What is it. I want to connect into it.

The easiest solution would be to buy or borrow a crimper and crimp the bottom edge of the pipe. But note the previous caveats that I posted. View attachment View attachment Reactions: Highbeam.

BigJ Minister of Fire. Feb 15, Maryland. Figured it out with the help of forum member. When I took the rusted pieces off the single wall pipe connecting to the drip pipe shown in pick was inserted male up INTO drip pipe installer fail. The single wall pipe slides OVER the drip pipe.

This allows it to slid up and down, thus allowing me to insert another pipe into stove flange and then slide pipe downward connecting it all. BigJ said:. I was in error here and misidentified the stove pipe brand. It was correctly identified in the other thread. Highbeam Minister of Fire. Dec 28, 19, Mt. Rainier Foothills, WA. No problem.

No matter what the piece is when I took it apart the male end was inside. Thus I figured tbat was the way it was supposed to go until another user said it goes on the outside.

Kinda one of the duhhhh moments that caused my wife to look at me and say I see on your profile that you live South puget sound. Do not use this item for any installation or repair of potable water applications.

This product does not comply with the "Safe Drinking Water Act," which requires that products meet low-lead standards in order to be used in systems providing water for human consumption drinking or cooking.

This item is for non-potable non-human consumption water applications only. At this time, we do not carry this unit. We list it on our site because we do sell replacement parts for this unit. Please contact us with any questions: Add to List.

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Compound-leverage mechanism makes precise indentations on 24 gauge steel and 28 gauge stainless steel. The 5-Blade Crimper features comfortable, contoured grips that cover hardened steel handles and a convenient self-opening tool latch for one handed operation.

The all steel construction with nickel plating provides long life and durability. Manuals 1.